Outstanding Budget Ski Trips

October 26, 2009

Budget Ski Trips by Kimberly Thompson (Concierge.com 10/21)

Grand Targhee, Wyoming
Monarch, Colorado
Jay Peak, Vermont
Whistler Blackcomb, British Colombia
Loveland, Colorado
Taos Ski Valley, New Mexico
Alta, Utah
Cannon Mountain, New Hampshire
Alpine Meadows, California
Keystone, Colorado

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING
Annual snowfall: 500 inches
Vertical drop: 2,270 feet
Skiable acres: 2,100
One-day lift ticket: $69

Perfect for: Intermediates who want to experience the Tetons but don’t have the skills to tackle Jackson Hole
Why here: Snow. Powder. Fluff. The white stuff. Whatever you call it, Targhee’s got lots. When storms blow in over Idaho, they get hung up on the west side of the Tetons, unloading much of their precious cargo on this small mom-and-pop resort before moving on to Jackson Hole. Targhee is also more affordable and far less intimidating than its cousin on the other side of Teton Pass. Its terrain is mellow (some gripe that after a four-foot dump, it’s not steep enough to ski), and it’s got a friendly, potato-farmer vibe.
The highlight: While you’re here for the snow (have we mentioned that it gets a lot?), pray for one day without it: The eye-level, front-row views of Grand Teton are life list–worthy.
Sleep for cheap: The Teewinot Lodge (pictured) is the exception rather than the rule:
It’s both the nicest lodging in the area and the most affordable. This ski-in/ski-out hotel
was refurbished in 2006 in tasteful, log-cabin style; post-ski perks include pillow-top
mattresses, boot warmers, and flat-screen TVs. The Roll Outta Bed & Ride package—one night’s lodging at the Teewinot Lodge and one lift
ticket—starts at $89 per person

MONARCH, COLORADO
Annual snowfall: 350 inches
Vertical drop: 1,162 feet
Skiable acres: 800
One-day lift ticket: $54

Perfect for: Expert powder skiers—real experts, not just the ones that check off Type III on their rental forms—hungry for a snowcat adventure
Why here: Monarch is beautiful. Located in central Colorado’s San Isabel National Forest, it’s surrounded by the majestic peaks of the Sawatch Mountain Range. But you’re not here to gawk: Monarch’s snowcat terrain is some of the best in Colorado…and it’s empty. Monarch Snowcat Tours will take you on 10 to 12 runs down steeps blanketed with pure, dry, untouched Colorado powder. The cost? $250, way cheaper than heli-skiing in British Columbia. Sold? Well, you should know that without fresh snow, Monarch’s modest acreage won’t entertain for long. So check the forecast, plan a two- or three-day trip, and bring your snow-dancing shoes.
The highlight: Mirkwood Basin. It’s only a 15-minute hike from the top of the Breezeway lift, but its 130 acres of fresh snow make it feel miles from a resort.  If you’re backcountry savvy, the gates on the far side of the bowl will open up a whole new world of white.
Sleep for cheap: At first glance, the Monarch Mountain Lodge looks like the hotel from The Shining, but like the lifties, it’s always warm and friendly. The rooms try to
pass off trail maps as artwork, but there’s an indoor pool and an outdoor hot tub (speaking of shining, the latter provides some of the best star-watching in the state). One night at Monarch Mountain Lodge plus two lift tickets (one for the day of arrival and one for the next day): approximately $100 per personwww.monarchmountainlodge.com

JAY PEAK, VERMONT
Annual snowfall: 376 inches
Vertical drop: 2,153 feet
Skiable acres: 385
One-day lift ticket: $65

Perfect for: The East Coast skier who wants a break from bouncing off bulletproof steeps
Why here: Old Man Winter not only lives at Jay Peak, he skis here, too: Jay gets more snowfall than any other resort in the East—not to mention many in the West. Pity that the “Jay Cloud” comes with biting winds and frigid temperatures (Canada is, after all, only
a snowball’s throw away). But Jay’s 100 acres of trees provide respite from the weather, and you won’t be thinking about your cold toes while you’re making fresh tracks, anyway.  Those glades also make this ski hill far bigger than its official 385 acres, which is good, considering that there’s really not much else to do here. The frequent gripes about Jay’s dated base lodges and absent nightlife have been heard: New ownership plans to open a luxury hotel (as yet unnamed) here in January 2010, and a livelier selection of restaurants and bars is on the way as well. Jay is a bit harder to get to than Stowe or Mad River Glen, but that also makes it less crowded. And if you have a season pass to a different resort, flash it at the ticket window for $20 off your lift ticket.
The highlight: Après-ski at the Belfry, in nearby Montgomery, is the best place to get
your fill of frothy ale and local lore.
Sleep for cheap: Jay has more slopeside condos than you can shake a ski pole at, and they’re great for large families or groups that want to cook for themselves. For those who prefer a traditional hotel (or for someone else to do the cooking), there’s the Hotel Jay. It isn’t the Ritz, but it is steps from the lift and has a surprising reputation among gourmands for its tasty—and affordable—fare.
Four midweek nights at Hotel Jay—including breakfast, dinner, and lift tickets
(plus a free half-day on the day you arrive)—is $165 per person per night

WHISTLER BLACKCOMB, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Annual snowfall: 402 inches
Vertical drop: 5,020 feet (Whistler); 5,280 feet (Blackcomb)
Skiable acres: 4,757 (Whistler); 3,414 (Blackcomb)
One-day lift ticket: $89

Perfect for: Diehards who scoff at fair-weather skiers—Whistler’s annual 34 feet of snow don’t drop out of sunny skies
Why here: With one-day lift tickets ringing up at $89, Whistler Blackcomb isn’t exactly cheap, but it is the real deal: a vast playground of mile-high cliffs that get so much snow you can ski down them. The U.S. dollar goes farther in Canada now than it has during the recent past, and with the 2010 Winter Olympic Games coming down the pike, it’s a great time to check out the scene before the throngs—and price-gouging—hit. (You can snag significant savings with the right ski-and-stay package.) Since these peaksare massive, show up at either mountain’s mid-mountain guest satisfaction center at 11:30 am to join a free tour to get your bearings. In general, Whistler is slightly easier to handle than Blackcomb, but don’t expect much coddling there, either: Both are mountains best handled by experts.
The highlight: A ride in the new Peak 2 Peak Gondola (pictured). Spanning 2.73 miles and supported by just four towers, it’s an engineering marvel: the longest unsupported lift span in the world and, at 1,427 feet above the valley floor, the highest lift of its kind. To ramp up the fear factor, catch the glass-bottomed car.
Sleep for cheap: Perched on the mountain above Blackcomb Village, Residence Inn by Marriott’s homey, nicer-than-average ski-in/ski-out condos include full kitchens and fireplaces. There’s also a slopeside heated pool and hot tub (trust us, you’ll need it), plus free breakfast.
Three nights at the Residence Inn by Marriott and two days of skiing start at $195 per
person

LOVELAND, COLORADO
Annual snowfall: 400 inches
Vertical drop: 2,410 feet
Skiable acres: 1,365
One-day lift ticket: $56

Perfect for: Hard-charging powder-hounds who think “luxury” means free parking
Why here: Perched at the top of the Continental Divide, Loveland’s 92 trails and high-alpine bowls are usually deserted, save for a devoted Denver fan base. It’s also just an hour’s drive from the airport, which—given I-70’s weekend gridlock—could mean packing an extra day or two of skiing into your trip. So what’s the catch? For starters, Loveland has no base village, no slopeside hotels, no ski valets, and no heated sidewalks—or sidewalks, period, for that matter. And its terrain is some of Colorado’s most exposed (head-to-toe Gore-Tex is a good idea). But if you’re looking for an affordable Colorado fix or you’re on the springtime hunt for good corn (Loveland stays open until early May), you’ll fall for this locals’ favorite.
The highlight: Views of the Rockies from the 12,700-foot summit of Chair 9—they’re
worth the risk of frostbite.
Sleep for cheap: There’s no lodging at Loveland, but the quaintness of Victorian-styled Georgetown (pictured)—founded as a mining camp in 1859—makes up for the ten-minute drive to the slopes. Rooms at the Georgetown Mountain Inn are done up in rather dated mountain style, but there’s an indoor pool for the kids, and the views can’t be beat. (Watch for bighorn sheep outside your window.)
Ski-and-stay packages for the Georgetown Mountain Inn start at $156 per day for
the room and two adult lift tickets (a child’s lift ticket is an additional $20)
TAOS SKI VALLEY, NEW MEXICO
Annual snowfall: 305 inches
Vertical drop: 2,612 feet
Skiable acres: 1,294
One-day lift ticket: $66

Perfect for: Groups that include nonskiers. While the skiers test their mettle on the resort’s throat-tightening steeps, everyone else can forage for art, food, and culture in town.
Why here: Located 20 miles from one of the quaintest and most colorful tourist towns in the West, Taos Ski Valley has a unique Southwest-meets-Europe charm. Its terrain rivals that of Jackson Hole and Blackcomb; what’s more, it gets 300-plus days of sunshine a year. As for crowds, since there are no lift lines to speak of, you’ll get in so many runs that your quads will be begging for a lift down the mountain at the end of the day. One word of caution, though: Check the weather report before you come. In a lean snow year, Taos’s bony chutes are unforgiving.
The highlight: Even if you didn’t challenge the mountain, you can still join the après crowd gathered around the Hotel St. Bernard’s slopeside fire pit for a martini. Be sure to check out the 50-year-old photos…of people sitting around the fire pit.
Sleep for cheap: The rooms at Hotel Don Fernando de Taos are done in traditional Southwestern decor, punctuated by work by local artists. The hotel is located in town, and getting around is easy: There’s complimentary shuttle service to historic Taos square, and the Taos Ski Valley bus (a.k.a. the “Chile Line”) makes the 30-minute trip from your lodgings to the base an easy $1 ride. Nearby restaurants like Five Star Burger make dining out particularly affordable. Rooms at the Hotel Don Fernando de Taos start at $89; lift tickets are $66.
ALTA, UTAH
Annual snowfall: 500 inches
Vertical drop: 2,020 feet
Skiable acres: 2,200
One-day lift ticket: $64

Perfect for: Skiers who dream of schussing through waist-high powder (snowboarders remain
verboten)
Why here: Alta, with its cranky lifts, copious powder, and legendary steeps, is a classic resort that every serious skier needs to experience. And since flights into Salt Lake City are extremely affordable, it’s an easy one to check off your list. The rugged terrain of the Wasatch Range is softened considerably with 500 inches—that’s 42 feet—of snow, which is as close as any resort gets to a powder guarantee. The action fades with the setting sun (dining and nightlife options are limited), but when dawn breaks to 15 more inches of fresh, you’ll be grateful for the good night’s sleep.
The highlight: Tree skiing accessed via the Supreme Lift, just after a storm. Alta doesn’t do double-diamond designations, but if it did, these steep runs would certainly qualify.
(Beware of cliffs, especially in the trees off Challenger.)
Sleep for cheap: Nearby Salt Lake City has tons of budget-friendly hotels, but cashing in on the savings can be risky: When a big snow hits, the road that winds through Little Cottonwood Canyon to Alta is often closed. Alta’s base area has five ski-in/ski-out lodges—each with its own devoted fan base—that operate on a European program (breakfast, lunch, and dinner included). The Peruvian’s simple, wood-paneled guest rooms aren’t much to look at, but like most of the other lodges, this property has an après-ski bar, a game room, a heated outdoor pool, and a hot tub (plus a movie room and ski rental shop). And it tends to have the best deals.
Four nights at the Peruvian, three lift tickets, and three meals per day
(plus round-trip transportation to and from the airport) is $214 per person per night;
CANNON MOUNTAIN, NEW HAMPSHIRE
Annual snowfall: 160 inches
Vertical drop: 2,180 feet
Skiable acres: 178
One-day lift ticket: $64

Perfect for: Purists. Cannon is a skier’s mountain with a temperament as rugged as its
terrain.
Why here: At this unapologetically old-school, state-owned mountain (don’t call it a resort), it’s always snowing, sleeting, or raining. There are few lodging, après-ski, or dining options. And once you step off the tram, you’re on your own to find a way down what is arguably the most challenging terrain in the East. (Don’t miss Upper Cannon, a New England classic.) But therein lies Cannon’s appeal: This soulful place is about skiing, not hobnobbing. The mountain does make a few concessions to those intimidated by or unprepared for its tough rep, including a separate family area that’s tracked with groomed beginner trails. Lift tickets are two-for-one every Tuesday and Thursday throughout the season.
The highlight: A ride in Cannon’s tram. The original was built in 1938—the first in North America—at the head of Franconia Notch State Park.
Sleep for cheap: There is no ski-in/ski-out lodging at Cannon, which is just fine by its fans. (Skiing is supposed to be an outdoor sport—with views of trees, not mansions.) But a few minutes down the road, you’ll find a range of accommodations, from cozy cabins to chain hotels. For a quintessential—and affordable—New England experience, book a room at the Franconia Inn (pictured), an enchanting historic hotel complete with horse-drawn sleigh rides, cross-country skiing, gourmet dining, outdoor hot tubs, and an après-ski pub. From there, it’s a five-minute drive to the slopes.
Rates start at $115 per couple, per night, and the inn offers discount lift tickets:
$48 for weekends; $37 midweek; 603-823-5542

ALPINE MEADOWS, CALIFORNIA
Annual snowfall: 365 inches
Vertical drop: 1,802 feet
Skiable acres: 2,400
One-day lift ticket: $64

Perfect for: Spring skiers. Alpine has one of the longest seasons in the valley, often
operating well into May.
Why here: Alpine is the anti-Squaw: It shares a ridgeline with the Tahoe superstar, but it’s utterly unpretentious, and lift tickets here are some of the cheapest in the valley. It’s also gorgeous, with the area’s best views of the lake (sorry, Heavenly). While many resorts tout the “something for everyone” cliché, it happens to be true at Alpine. Experts find plenty of goods in the chutes and bowls north of the Summit Six Express: From the top, it’s a ten-minute hike to the Double Black Diamond Beaver Bowl, but trust us, it’s worth it. Intermediates love the blue cruisers off the Roundhouse quad because they can challenge themselves without being scared silly. And groups of skiers with mixed
abilities can all ride up the lift together, separate to ski different terrain, and then meet up at the bottom for another lift ride.
The highlight: Dinner at Christy Hill. It’s not Tahoe City’s most renowned restaurant, but it is one of the best. The elegant dining room is perched above the lake—be sure to catch the sunset—and prices on the no-fuss menu won’t make you want to jump overboard. (Try the pan-seared wild king salmon with cracked pepper in a cabernet demi-glace.)
Sleep for cheap: There’s not much in the way of lodging at Alpine’s base, but there are plenty of options ten minutes away in Tahoe City. If you don’t mind rustic, camp-style cabins, try the Tamarack Lodge: The price—$150 for a two-bedroom with a full kitchen, even on weekends—will help you see past the tacky comforters.
KEYSTONE, COLORADO
Annual snowfall: 230 inches
Vertical drop: 3,128 feet
Skiable acres: 3,148
One-day lift ticket: $92

Perfect for: Families. Even if Mom’s a ripper, Dad’s a beginner, and Junior’s a park rat,
they’ll all find a favorite run.
Why here: It’s all about convenience. Keystone is a self-contained village (if an ersatz one—the “mining town” theme is a little contrived), with coffee shops, restaurants, and rental shops within walking distance of the lifts and lodging. As for the skiing, Keystone’s strength is in its diversity, from fast groomers like Star Fire to the Windows, a steep, challenging glade. The kids can kick it by day in one of the nation’s best terrain parks, ride all evening on Keystone’s illuminated slopes, and then hang with their newfound friends in the plaza until curfew. That means parents—with money to burn, thanks to Keystone’s unbeatable package deals—are free to do whatever they want. Now that’s a vacation.
The highlight: Adventure Point tubing park (pictured)—a 1,000-foot drop that nears 30 degrees in parts and might be the most thrilling part of your day. (Unless, that is, you
followed your teenager into the terrain park.)
Sleep for cheap: The River Run Village’s one- to four-bedroom units—done up in standard mountain-condo decor—include a full kitchen (eating in will save you plenty), living room, dining room, and gas fireplace. And they’re close enough to the slopes that you can ski straight to the heated outdoor pool and hot tub.
Four nights of lodging at River Run Village and four lift tickets starts at $157 per person
per night. Night skiing is free the day you arrive (excluding Mondays and Tuesdays).
Keystone also throws in an Adventure Passport, which includes a free ice-skating pass and
coupons for local restaurants and activities

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